Anyways, what I really want to share is my highlight of my Summer holidays.
I look forward to summer every year because it is a chance to sleep in, hang out with friends anytime of the day, sleep in, go on day trips, visit some favorite hideaways, and to venture out and try new things. This summer Nicole and I signed up for surfing lessons. I have been wanting to try surfing for a few years now and finally the timing was right.
We spent a week camping in Tofino, just the two of us, surfing, hiking, soaking in the sun, and escaping the city life.
We both loved it and can't wait for next summer.
We were decked out from neck to toe in a neoprene wetsuit,
which kept us comfortable in the coldish water. Our nine foot soft top board was attached to our ankle by a nine foot leash.
The best way to describe the surfing technique would be with the following words: spot your wave, hop on your board, paddle, dig your hands and arms into the water, paddle hard, feel the push of the wave, paddle twice more, pop up and enjoy the ride. Well the pop up is not as easy as it looks and well, I only popped up for about 2 seconds before loosing balance and submitting to the surf. Feeling the push of the waves and even riding the wave in on your knees was awesome.
I am excited to try again next season. Gnarly dude!
